Alternatively, firms like Apex Technology will attempt to recover data from DVDs, with prices that start at £95 plua VAT per disc.
CD ROLLER OPINIONS ISO
Otherwise, the best I can suggest is trying to recover the video using a program such as the CD Roller Raw ISO Data Identifier. If you use one of these, the file transfer is easy, but have you found it easy to read and edit the video files on a PC? Which format do you use, and does the compressed image quality provide an acceptable result?
CD ROLLER OPINIONS FREE
ISOBuster also offers some limited free recovery tools, but if it’s unable to help, then CDRoller is worth checking out. However, a camcorder that uses either chp storage (such as SD cards) or a built-in hard drive would be another option. CDRoller is a capable enough tool for data recovery, but it’s worth trying ISOBuster first, particularly if CDRoller isn’t able to read the disc in the first place. I tend to think Anthony would be better off using a different format, and MiniDV is still the standard. The MiniDVD normally requires you to finalise it in the camera before it can be used in a PC.ĭo you use a MiniDVD camera, have you run into this problem, and how do you solve it? MiniDVD camcorders use small format DVD discs to record the video, and are not to be confused with MiniDV models, which use a small tape. I don't believe the problem is with the cameras as the finalising issue seems to occur even with the newest camera, with less than two hours use on it. More than the odd disc is not allowing me to finalise it at the end of the session, and of course it doesn't give any indication of impending doom when I first put it in. I thought this topic might provoke some discussion.I have three Sony MiniDVD camcorders which I use to film my work with clients. No definitive, right or wrong answers-just thoughts and opinions. That's been my experience, but I wanted to ask the community's opinions. It seems like I've had to clean them more than the ceramics, and recently 2 of them dirt/rusted solid to the point they wouldn't turn, but cleaning and lubing revived them. They are smooth and free spin for 30 seconds or more.
I replaced them with Bones Big Balls because I wanted to try a 6-ball bearing. I skated a set of generic ceramics for a year and a half. If ceramics ARE inherently that much better, wouldn't you be better off buying the generic ceramics? The name-brand bearing companies feel their ceramics are worth 3-4x more than their basic bearings. Since you can buy generic ceramic bearings for about the same cost as basic name-brand steel bearings, why wouldn't you? Are basic steel bearings any better or worse than generic ceramics?īased on their pricing, ceramic bearings should be "better" than steel bearings. Generic ceramic bearings from China cost a little over $30 a set with shipping.
Top-of-the-line Bones Swiss Ceramics are $300/set Name-brand ceramic bearings cost $100-145 a set. Premium ("Swiss") name-brand steel bearings cost $80-120 a set. Given the controversies, I am still curious about skaters' opinions about the following facts:īasic name-brand steel bearings cost $30-45 for a set of 16 (Bones, Bionic, Cheezeballs, Kwik, Moto) The new feature gives you a concensus on peoples.
This makes it easier to plan what you need to do to fix problems. There is a new button to group them all together like in the orginal RCT. Also instead of having to click on a single person to view their opinions. Some people swear by certain types and brands of bearings and lubricants others feel they don't make much difference one way or the other. Like in the first and second edition, you can build tunnels right through walls. Many skaters have strong opinions about what is good and bad. Bearings and their lubricants seem to be a controversial topic with roller skaters.